top of page

What Nobody Tells you About Growing Old in Italy

Updated: 3 days ago

(An What Happens When Life Doesn't Go the Way You Planned)


This started with a comment someone posted in my Facebook group. It wasn’t the usual panic about consulates or income thresholds. It was quieter and heavier. A woman asked how couples should plan for the future when they move to Italy. What happens as they age. What happens if one partner dies first. What happens when the fantasy of la dolce vita meets the unglamorous truth of human mortality.

Elderly couple holding hands, walking down a narrow alley. She carries a yellow bag. Warm tones, peaceful atmosphere.

I sat with that question longer than I expected. Maybe because it echoed something personal. My parents built their lives in the United States, raised kids, paid taxes, learned the language, did all the immigrant things. Then years later, when the arc of their lives started bending toward old age, they went back to Europe. Not because they were running from anything. Because they wanted to return to a place where aging felt natural, not hidden. They wanted care that wasn’t tied to billing codes. They wanted neighbors who noticed things.


There’s a lesson in that. A deep one.


People picture retiring in Italy as a soft landing. Markets in the morning, a little walk, a glass of wine in the afternoon sun. And that part is real. But aging here has its own rules, its own terrain, its own expectations. You don’t feel it all at once. You feel it the first time a hill you used to climb effortlessly makes you stop to breathe. You feel it when the cobblestones that looked charming at 55 feel treacherous at 75. You feel it when your knees start negotiating with medieval stairs.


And then there’s the deeper truth. If you move here as a couple, you are building a life where the two of you are the foundation and the walls. And when one of you weakens, the other absorbs all the weight. It’s not dramatic. It’s ordinary. And that’s what makes it so real.


But here is the part that people consistently underestimate, especially Americans.


Italy is not a place where you can age well if you float above the community.


You need people. Actual people. Not Facebook avatars. Not acquaintances from English-speaking meetups. Not the couple you met once at an expat aperitivo who promised to “grab lunch sometime.” I’ve been around enough expats to tell you honestly that while there are pockets of incredibly supportive communities, they are the exception, not the rule. Folks who’ve been here a while are often busy living their lives. They’re not unkind. They’re just not your safety net. Many took all the help they could get on the way in, but they aren’t sticking around to guide the next wave.


That’s not a moral failing. It’s human nature.


The real support system in Italy comes from something deeper. It comes from showing up. It comes from being woven into the life of a place.


It comes from your neighbor who has lived in the same building since 1978 and knows every sound your apartment makes. It comes from the older man at the café who notices if you haven’t been by for a few mornings. It comes from the pharmacist who remembers your name, your prescription, and the fact that your dog gets anxious during storms. It comes from participating in the sagre, the Pro Loco events, the morning rituals, the voluntary associations. It comes from learning enough Italian to have real conversations, not just functional ones.

Five elderly men playing cards at a round table in a European plaza. They're engaged and smiling, wearing suits and hats, with shops nearby.

If you become part of the local community, you’ll find yourself held in ways you didn’t even know you needed.


And that’s why choosing where to live in Italy is not just about views, real estate bargains or 7% Tax savings. It’s about belonging. Some towns are already structured to support older residents. Some have strong volunteer networks. Some have doctors who still make house calls. Some have neighbors who treat proximity like responsibility. Those are not tourist features. Those are survival features.


Then there’s the question that started this whole thing. What happens when one partner dies.


The administrative side is real and yes, you have to be ready for it: the bilingual will, the succession rules, the bank access, the permesso status changes. You plan those pieces because you don’t want to unravel your life in the middle of grief. I’ve write a whole chapter covering all of that in Escape Plan, the paperwork and the logistics, the part you can control with a checklist and a pen. But the truth is that when I wrote it, I didn’t think much about the emotional side of this equation. Maybe because I’m still in my early fifties and the idea of losing my life partner lives somewhere behind a closed door I don’t open often.


But the emotional side matters just as much.


Because the worst thing you can do is assume you will build your entire life around one person and then somehow expect to be held by an expat acquaintance when that person is gone. You want the woman upstairs who keeps an eye on the building. You want the butcher who knows your name. You want the pharmacist who speaks to you slowly because they know you’re trying. You want the people you see every week in the piazza. That’s your real insulation.


Italy is extraordinary for aging gracefully, but not if you do it in isolation. You have to root yourself. You have to create bonds that live past you. You have to invest in the life of the town so that the town invests in you when you need it most.


This is what my parents understood when they went back to Europe. They weren’t chasing scenery. They were chasing a sense of belonging that carries you through the harder years. The years when your body is less cooperative. The years when you lose people. The years when routine and community are the only things that feel steady.


That’s the part nobody tells you when they post photos of sunsets over terracotta roofs.


Growing old in Italy can be one of the most beautiful chapters of your life. But only if you prepare for the parts that don’t fit neatly into a postcard. Only if you build a life that can hold you when one of you isn’t there to hold the other.

This post only scratches the surface. Escape Plan breaks down everything—from the logistics to the long-term planning—so you can move to Italy with confidence rather than guesswork. If you want to take the next step, you can start here.

Escape Plan: How to Move from the US to Italy - Paperback
$14.99
Buy Now
Escape Plan: How to Move from the US to Italy - eBook
$9.99
Buy Now

bottom of page